Outer Islands of the Seychelles: Close Encounters

The Outer Islands of the Seychelles are like the Garden of Eden.

This article was written by Rachel Ingram. Photography courtesy of Alpohonse Island.

George was the largest tortoise I’d ever seen. He was also the friendliest. Measuring over 3-feet-long and nearly 100 years old, George is also the oldest resident on Alphonse, a small isle in the Outer Islands of the Seychelles. He’s lived on the island since it was a coconut plantation and now resides harmoniously alongside travelers who visit in the pursuit of the kind of barefoot luxury that’s often claimed but rarely so well achieved.

Now half-resort-half-nature-reserve, Alphonse takes visitors beyond the cookie-cutter honeymoon escape that the Seychelles is so well known for and submerges them into a nature-rich haven that brims with wildlife. George is just one of around 100 resident wild tortoises that roam the island, alongside various species of birds, including wedge-tail shearwaters who’ve created a breeding colony.

This area of the Seychelles is known as the “holy grail” of catch-and-release fly fishing and the waters are filled with giant trevally–or “GTs”, as the fly-fishing community call them. The deep blue is also a breeding ground for sailfish–the fastest fish in the world, which can swim in excess of 68 miles per hour–plus sharks and other species of giant fish, including napoleon rasp, wahoo, tuna, and grouper–Spud the resident Potato Grouper is a local favorite.

As a keen diver, I focused on what roamed under the water’s surface and discovered vibrant coral reefs over-flowing with colorful tropical fish, countless turtles, and multiple species of stingrays, including mantas, porcupines, and whitetails. Thanks to its shallow reefs and crystal-clear waters, Alphonse is a snorkeler’s paradise, but what’s on land is equally entertaining.

On the island, a connection with nature seeps into every facet of a guest’s stay. Visitors occupy individual bungalows that open onto the beach and bathe in outdoor showers. Villas with up to four bedrooms also feature private pools and gardens that guests may share with a resident tortoise or native bird. Visitors explore the island on bicycles and, with their feet in the sand, dine on fresh fish caught locally and vegetables grown on Alphonse’s expansive farm. Throughout their stay, guests are encouraged to make themselves at home and embrace a casual ambience. It’s laid-back luxury at its most charming.

Alphonse is locally managed by Blue Safari Seychelles, which also runs properties on the outer islands of Cosmoledo and Astove. It’s located around an hour by plane from Mahé, the capital of the Seychelles and the launch pad for most holidays in the island nation.

Mahé is one of three famous islands in the “inner” archipelago of the Seychelles. The others include Praslin, best known for the UNESCO-listed Vallee de Mai Nature Reserve and its rare Coco de Mer trees, and La Digue, a non-motorized island with dramatic granite boulder-flanked beaches. With so much to offer, the “inner” islands are tourist hotspots for good reason, but visitors willing to take an additional 60- to 90-minute flight to the remote “outer” islands will discover a secluded, natural world that’s mostly undisturbed. It’s island living at its finest–and luxury hotel groups are taking note. Earlier this year, Waldorf Astoria Hotels and Resorts opened a property on the outer island of Platte, while Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts runs a luxurious hotel in Deroches.

Despite being surrounded by water, the outer isles are not particularly suitable for private yachts. The reefs circling the islands are incredibly shallow, which is ideal for snorkelers but can be troublesome for yachts. Tides are also incredibly fast–as we discovered when we almost got stranded on the uninhabited island of Bijoutier, which is only accessible at high tide. As such, those sailing to the Seychelles should dock their yacht in a marina in Mahé and fly on to one of the islands.

Eden Island Marina, 15 minutes by car from Seychelles International Airport, is the largest in the Seychelles and is a popular and well-equipped spot to moor superyachts up to 120 meters. The marina was developed in response to increased demand from the yachting world, which is only growing. Motor yachts including Alaiya, Lady S, Daloob, Um Alhoul, No Stress Two, and Big Fish have all docked in the island in recent months and, on my return to Mahé, I spotted 142-meter Lürssen superyacht Nord off the coast.

With 115 islands to explore and waters filled with sea life, it’s little wonder the Seychelles is attracting increasing numbers of yacht owners and luxury travelers looking for adventure away from the well-trodden islands of the Mediterranean and Caribbean. While the nation’s inner islands are certainly beautiful, my advice would be to look beyond the reef and visit the outer islands while you’re there.

And if you visit Alphonse, say hi to George.

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